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Rear brake adjustment.

 

 


Many Niva brake problems stem from the rear brakes not being adjusted properly. Early Nivas did not have automatically adjusting rear brakes, so they need adjusted up every now and again (usually before every WOF/MOT test). Follow the instructions in the manual - it's pretty simple but there's a few basics to make sure you do, or you'll never get them right:

- De-adjust the handbrake (I disconnect it entirely) beforehand. This is essential or the brakes won't adjust properly.

- Make sure you turn the adjusting nuts in the correct direction (there's 2 on each wheel) - your spanner should always hit the axles from underneath.

- Adjust the nuts so the hub binds a little more than you'd normally think necessary (especially if your shoes are a bit worn). Really. I had a soggy pedal and ineffective rear braking and bleed and adjusted mine several times - but it kept failing the MOT/WOF test. My mechanic buddy adjusted them so tight I was planning to secretly back them off around the corner to save the poor old shoes. However, he was quite right - the brakes came good, passed the test, and finally felt as reassuring as brakes in most other cars. Though if the wheels feel overly hot after a few KMs of driving with minimal braking, the drums are too tight.

- Check your rear shoes if you're having constant adjustment issues - they may well be worn out.

 

Later Nivas (from some time in 1994) came with self-adjusting rear brakes. These can be fitted to older Nivas.

 

Bleeding order: Rear left, rear right, front upper left, front upper right, front lower left, front lower right.

 

 

 

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