Niva Resource: Oils

The good oil.

Volumes

Engine: 3.75 litres
Gearbox (5-speed): 1.8 - 2 litres (this is an 'over-fill' - instructions here)
Transfer-case: 0.75 litres
Diff Front:1.15 litres
Diff Rear:1.3 litres
Steering: 0.215 litres

Grades

Engine
The engine is happy with a good quality 15W-40 mineral engine oil for summer, 10W-40 for winter, or if you live in a cold area. I (and others) often use 20W-50 as it's all that's easily available and it seems to be fine in my worn old 1600.

Gearbox
API GL4 or 5 spec 80 to 90 weight gear oil: SAE 75W-80 or 75W-90 (-40 to +35°C environment), 80W-85 or 80W-90 (-26 to +35°C), 85W-90 (-12 to +45°C). Change every 10,000Km.
• GL5 warning: While GL5 spec was specified for the 5-speed gearbox in some markets, there is debate over its use in many Lada & Fiat forums. Ladas use brass synchromesh rings and bronze coatings on the shifter forks, and Avtovaz claim trials show GL-5 is not aggressive towards these materials. However, this is not some people's experience with some GL5s: Older style GL5 spec oils have high contents of sulphur that become acidic with heat and age and may destroy bronze parts used in older style gearboxes like the Lada and Fiat. For this reason Castrol recommends GL4 spec for gearboxes with bronze parts.
However, many GL5s now instead use alkylamines (eg Motul HD 80W90 Mineral or 75W90 Synthetic ) and are far less corrosive to yellow metals. Such oils should be fine in a Lada 'box. There's no industry test for brass and bronze I'm aware of, but If a GL5 causes minimal weight loss in the copper catalyst weight loss ASTM D-5704 test it's a good sign it's probably yellow mental friendly.
• Some oils may be too thick or slippery for the synchromesh; eg my 'box that ran perfectly with Valveoline synthetic 75W-90 had instant synchromesh issues with Castrol EPX 80W-90 (ie diff oil), but returned to almost normal with Redline MTL-90 (well, for a while).
• Synthetic oils are a bit of an unknown; they can seep past rubber seals easier than equivalent mineral, and they may (or may not) speed the life of the rubber seals. I'd love to hear from people who have used synthetics long term in their Lada 'box?
• Lada & Korean Parts Australia recommends an Australian-only Castrol variant made especially for Mitsubishi synchromesh problems: Castrol VMX-M, a mineral 75W-85 GL4 (specs here). Don't put it in differentials though (as they need GL-5). This is not available in NZ (but a Fuchs GL4 for Mitsubishis etc is available from B&T Automotive).

Transfer-case
API GL5 spec EP90 (ie hypoid compatible) oil, same as the diffs. Change every 10,000Km.

Differentials
API GL5 spec EP90 (ie hypoid compatible) oil will do: 75W-90 winter, 80W-90 summer. Likewise change every 10,000Km.
• Front and rear diffs can use an EP90 heavy duty (HD) axle oil (eg Castrol EPX or Shell Spirax axle oil). But don't put it in the gearbox as the syncros may not work properly.
• Lada & Korean Parts Australia recommend an 85W/140 for hotter climates, and Russian enthusiasts like 75W/140 (do not put a 140 in the 'box though).
Do not use GL4 as it does not have adequate properties to protect a diff.
• If you have a LSD fitted it will probably need a special LSD diff oil.

Note: 'boxes, transfer-cases and diffs can suck in water during river crossings, change your oils if this happens. Check out the DIY gearbox and diff breathers to avoid this.

Steering-box
EP90 (probably any 90 weight gear oil will do?) for the steering-box. A common fix for leaky steering-boxes is to top them up with grease.

Brakes
Brake Oil: DOT 4

CVs & Ball-joints
Use grease that says it is rubber safe.

Wheel-bearings & Drive-shafts
Normal multipurpose grease is fine for the wheel-bearings and drive-shafts, just make sure it's the heat-proof type suitable for wheel-bearings.

See Also:

Gearbox oil "over-fill" top-up

Diagnosing Niva gearbox problems

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