Niva Resource: Oils

The good oil.

Volumes

Engine: 3.75 litres
Gearbox (5-speed): 2 litres (this is an 'overfill' - instructions here)
Transfer-case: 0.75 litres
Diff Front:1.15 litres
Diff Rear:1.3 litres
Steering: 0.215 litres

Grades

Engine
The engine is happy with a good quality 15W-40 mineral engine oil for summer, 10W-40 for winter, or if you live in a cold area. I (and others) use 20W-50 as it's all that's easily available and it seems to be fine in my worn old 1600.

Gearbox
API GL4 or 5 spec 80 to 90 weight gear oil: SAE 75W-80 or 75W-90 (-40 to +35°C enviroment), 80W-85 or 80W-90 (-26 to +35°C), 85W-90 (-12 to +45°C). Change every 10,000Km.
-GL5 warning: While GL5 spec was specified for the 5-speed gearbox in some markets, there is debate over its use in many Lada & Fiat forums. Ladas use brass syncros and bronze coatings on the shifter forks, and Avtovaz claim trials show GL-5 is not aggressive towards these materials. However, this is not the experience with some GL5s: after running Valvoline synthetic-blend GL5 spec for 6 months in my own 5-speed Niva there was a very visable amount of bronze coloured particles in my 'box oil. Some GL5 spec oils have high contents of sulphur and may destroy bronze parts used in older style gearboxes like the Lada and Fiat. For this reason Castrol recommends GL4 spec for gearboxes with bronze parts.
However, some GL5s use alkylamines (eg Motul HD 80W90 Mineral or 75W90 Synthetic ) and are far less corrosive to yellow metals. If a GL5 causes minimal weight loss in the copper catalyst weight loss ASTM D-5704 test it's a good sign it's yellow mental friendly.
-Some oils may be too thick or slippery for the syncros; eg my 'box that ran perfectly with Valveoline synthetic 75W-90 had instant syncro issues with both Castrol EPX 80W-90 (ie diff oil), but returned to normal with Redline MTL-90.
- Synthetic oils are a bit of an unkown; they can seep past rubber seals easier than equlivent mineral, and they may (or may not) speed the life of the rubber seals. I'd love to hear from people who have used synthetics long term in their Lada 'box.
-Lada & Korean Parts Australia recommends an Australian-only Castrol variant made especially for Mitsubishi syncro problems: Castrol VMX-M, a mineral 75W-85 GL4 (specs here). Don't put it in diffs (they need GL-5). This is not available in NZ (but a Fuchs GL4 for Mitsubishis etc is available from B&T Automotive). I'm running Redline MTL-90 (specs here) at the mo' and the 'box is quiet, smooth, and the syncros have mostly returned, but it's leaking (not sure if it's my rear seal or if the oil itself is too slippery).

Transfer-case
API GL5 spec EP90 (ie hypoid compatible) oil, same as the diffs. Change every 10,000Km.

Differentials
API GL5 spec EP90 (ie hypoid compatible) oil will do: 75W-90 winter, 80W-90 summer. Likewise change every 10,000Km.
Front and rear diffs can use an EP90 heavy duty (HD) axle oil (eg Castrol EPX or Shell Spirax axle oil). But don't put it in the gearbox as the syncros may not work properly.
Lada & Korean Parts Australia recommend an 85W/140 for hotter climates, and Russian enthusiasts like 75W/140 (do not put a 140 in the 'box though).
Do not use GL4 as it does not have adequate properties to protect a diff.

Note: 'boxes, TCs and diffs can suck in water during river crossings, change your oils if this happens. Check out the DIY 'box and diff breathers to avoid this.

Steering-box
EP90 (probably any 90 weight gear oil will do?) for the steering-box. A common fix for leaky steering-boxes is to fill them with grease.

Brakes
Brake Oil: DOT 4

CVs & Ball-joints
Use white grease as normal grease can damage the rubber covers.

Wheel-bearings & Drive-shafts
Normal multipurpose grease is fine for the wheel-bearings and drive-shafts, just make sure it's the heat-proof type suitable for wheel-bearings.

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